Recently a friend of mine had a mishap with a circular saw hopefully this track saw will help to eliminate that problem.
Kickback with a circular saw is in my opinion one of the most common injuries. I started out by designing a sub-base plate so I could install a splitter (Riving Knife) to help avoid this issue. I decided to widen the base plate so I could run it in a guide similar to the commercial (and expensive) saws in the market place. I have always wanted one but couldn’t justify the cost.
As an added bonus when you cut into the sub-base for the first time you create a zero clearance kerf which means less tear-out. The jig is wide enough to crosscut a 4 x 8 sheet however it could be any length you desire. I added a mortise and tenon to the ends so I could add an extension piece and cut the full length of the 4 x 8 sheet.
Easy to build and even easier to use. This jig will give you an exact alignment edge after your first cut. When you construct the jig make the T (fence) a little oversized, then when you make your first cut it will provide you with an alignment mark for accurate cuts with your circular saw.
The jig shown in the plan will handle boards up to 18″ in width however the jig is so easy to build, I would suggest making a couple of different sizes just for ease of handling. The jig is just a great way to give you quick alignment and accurate cuts. If you are measuring from the left end of the board allow (add) the width of your saw blade for accurate cuts.
NOTE: This jig is designed to work when cutting with the waste to the right of your cut-off line.
Whenever I make a mitered box or frame I usually add simple splines to reinforce the miter joints. I was looking for something different and came up with a jig to cut dovetail slots on the corners.
This project is not really about the box (however it is a nice looking box) :). It’s really about the technique of creating dovetails that act as splines to strengthen the mitered corners.
I have included the plans for a simple box in case you do want to make it however the last few pages deal with the creation of the jig to cut the dovetail slots. It works very similar to a spline cutting jig except the jig is portable and you take your router to the jig instead of the other way around.
I hope you enjoy this project I believe this jig will see lots of use in my shop and I hope in yours as well. I would love to hear any comments you may have or better yet pictures of the masterpieces you create using your new dovetail spline jig. Happy woodworking!
3 IN 1 Planing Jig (Free) For years now I have made and used three separate jigs when using a hand plane. By combining all three into one I have now saved valuable wall space (where I hang my jigs) and the convenience of having all three planing jigs available in one place.
The first part of the jig is a normal bench hook which is an invaluable tool in any shop, simply hook it over the edge of your bench and plane and cut to your heart’s content.
The second part of the jig was the edition of the sub base which in essence turns the bench hook into a shooting board.
The shooting board is used to trim end grain, square the end of a board, fine tune a tenon, or create a chamfer – just about any job that requires your work-piece to be held quickly and securely without having to clamp it down.
Finally by adding the removable miter fence you can shoot your delicate miters accurately and efficiently on the planing jig.
This jig is a very basic woodworking tool but a must for anyone that does even the smallest amount of hand work in the shop.
The coping jig sled is a basic design that I saw advertised commercially for $90.00. I felt it could be built in the shop for $15 – 20.00 including the cost of this inexpensive plan 🙂 so I drew it up.
The advantage I see with this style of jig as opposed to the work-piece on top versions is everything is referenced from the router table top. Therefore you don’t need to have your bit raised up extremely high or use a collet extension. The movable work holder will even pivot to let you cope an angled work-piece. The transparent fence rides along your router table fence for perfect cope cuts every time.
This shop made coping jig is an inexpensive alternative to commercial models.
This mortising jig was originally designed by a friend and local woodworker John Nephew. It has always been affectionately referred to as “John’s Jig” and has been built and used by the majority of the woodworking night school students for the past eight years.
We have made a few minor changes over the years and are very satisfied with the end results. It is a very practical tool that make mortising with a hand held router easy and quick. Simple to build, easy to setup and even easier to use, it is one jig that you will be glad you built for your shop.
The work-piece stop blocks (shown in Paduk) are easy to remove for longer boards, but very handy when you want to make end mortises for loose tenon joinery.
This plan came about after watching a video from the Woodworkers Guild of America. The host explains the procedures to build this simple jig for re-sawing on the bandsaw. I thought a few pictures might add further clarification.
If you have ever tried to re-saw a board on your band saw you’ll appreciate how difficult to maintain a straight line will cutting your board. With the single point fence you can control your work-piece and follow your cut line very easily.
This exact width dado jig is very similar to the one that Marc Spagnola of the Wood Whisper.com built during a recent Guild Build. Marc posted a You Tube Video showing the construction of the jig. This is a similar version of the jig that I’m using as a sample of my plans. The actual plans are even more detailed and usually range from 10 – 20 pages in length.
If you ever use sheet goods for shelves mounted in dados in your case sides you will appreciate the accuracy you can get using this exact width dado jig. This jig is designed to dado boards up to 24” in width. Simply clamp the jig and work-piece to a work surface, set your fixed fence on the line for your dado insert the actual shelf, snug the moveable fence up to your shelf and lock it down. Now using your router with a guide bushing and spiral or straight bit (smaller than your dado) rout along the fixed fence and return on the adjustable fence….. and presto perfect dados.
If you want to make perfect circles quickly and easily this is bandsaw circle jig is for you.
Just set your circle radius, make your entry point and spin your work piece into the blade. Presto very accurate circle.
Easy to build and easy to use what more could you want. The jig clamps on to your saw’s table and the work piece spins on the adjustable radius for the required sized circle.
For ease of use when laying out your circle align one of the edges of the circle with an outside edge of your material. The jig is clamped on the underside of your saw by tighten bolts into threaded inserts. This provides easy mounting of the jig to the bandsaw,