This shop-made router lift has always been a popular project with visitors to the website. The construction is relatively easy and the benefits in the shop are huge. If you have ever checked the price of commercially made lift you will appreciate this project.
For anyone that always wanted a router lift, but just couldn’t justify the cost. This is (may) be the answer to you dilemma. The shop-made lift is constructed for the most part with plywood. The guide rails and v-blocks should be made using a dense hardwood like maple. The travel of the carrier is made possible with a threaded rod and a threaded insert. It can be driven with a wrench or to make it a little faster a socket and ratchet drive.Any play in the travel is taken up with the set screws that apply pressure on the hardwood v-blocks. The lower nut should be locked in place with silicone to stop it spinning. All of the finer details are laid out in the plan.
You do have to purchase a standard router plate which is available at any woodworking store like Rockler or Busy Bee in Canada.When your project is constructed it will fit the majority of barrel style routers on the market.
For years I have made do with an old router table that I should have rebuilt a long time ago. So I designed this cabinet stand and top that will provide me with ample storage and great dust collection and is easy to setup and use.
The top and fence assembly has all of the features that I have seen in commercial units so it should work well in the shop.
There is a miter slot running parallel to the front edge. Using the miter gauge it will be easier to do end grain cuts or for coping the ends of door rails. The fence runs on T-track and locked down with T-bolts and knobs, so it will be easy to setup accurately. Another great feature is the sliding split fence. Now I can adjust it very close to the bit diameter and flush with the bearing on the bit for safer cuts. In addition you could shim the outfeed side of the adjustable fence and use it as a mini edge joiner. The cut-out for the insert is shown at the industry standard for the better insert plates. (Maybe even a router lift) The fence also has T-Track mounted on the face and top to use I conjunction with feather-boards and hold-downs. Using the proper accessories provides greater safety for the operator and superior cuts.
The cabinet portion is designed with 8 small slide-out trays for bit holding or wrench storage. Basically anything you want to have nearby when working. Of course there is an access door to the router compartment. In the back of this router compartment there is a spot for 4” dust collection to compliment the 2 ½” dust port on the rear of the fence.
In addition to the 8 trays there are three drawers. The drawers are all mounted with full extension slides so they will support heavy accessories. The middle drawer in particular is large enough to house a spare router and edge guide (When you are using the router freehand. There is a frame under the bottom in case you want to make your router table portable. There is room underneath for a set of castors.
Any way you look at this project it is going to make a great addition to the shop.
For ease of construction I have broken this plan into three sub-assemblies, the carcass, the drawers and door and the top. As well there is a complete material list for your convenience.
Whenever I make a mitered box or frame I usually add simple splines to reinforce the miter joints. I was looking for something different and came up with a jig to cut dovetail slots on the corners.
This project is not really about the box (however it is a nice looking box) :). It’s really about the technique of creating dovetails that act as splines to strengthen the mitered corners.
I have included the plans for a simple box in case you do want to make it however the last few pages deal with the creation of the jig to cut the dovetail slots. It works very similar to a spline cutting jig except the jig is portable and you take your router to the jig instead of the other way around.
I hope you enjoy this project I believe this jig will see lots of use in my shop and I hope in yours as well. I would love to hear any comments you may have or better yet pictures of the masterpieces you create using your new dovetail spline jig. Happy woodworking!
This router bit storage cabinet was designed in an arts and crafts style with updated joinery.
The carcass and shelves are locked together using linear (sliding) dovetails. The top and bottom case parts extend past the edges of the main box by ¾” on the sides and ¼” past the glass door.
I have shown the shelves as drilled however I did not place any measurements in the drawings. The bit hole spacing will be totally dependent on your bit collection, both shank size and the style of bits that you have or may have in the future.
The cabinet is designed to hang on your shop wall using a French cleat system that is recessed in the frame work. I used pegboard as a back panel as quite often you have extra bearings or small parts like hex keys and safety starter pins that you may want to hang so they are always handy and easy to locate when required.
Looking for a simple, easy to build, and even easier to operate horizontal router table?
This version of the horizontal router table is very simple to construct using leftover materials in your shop. Cut two panels of Baltic birch plywood 16 x 16, a tabletop and a box for dust collection perform a little machining and you’re ready to start making your own mouldings, baseboards or anything that’s easier to mill on its flat. Keep in mind when using a horizontal router table the direction of feed is right to left unlike a conventional router table.
I would highly recommend you use feather boards and a bit guard when using any router mounted in a table. The feather boards will provide you with consistent cutting and the bit guard will remind you of a dangerous bit spinning at 1000’s of revolutions per minute. Having the T-track installed on the panel and the table make it easy to install any accessories that you will require and should use.
Simply clamp the table assembly in your vise set your height by moving the adjustable panel and you’re ready to rout.
The coping jig sled is a basic design that I saw advertised commercially for $90.00. I felt it could be built in the shop for $15 – 20.00 including the cost of this inexpensive plan 🙂 so I drew it up.
The advantage I see with this style of jig as opposed to the work-piece on top versions is everything is referenced from the router table top. Therefore you don’t need to have your bit raised up extremely high or use a collet extension. The movable work holder will even pivot to let you cope an angled work-piece. The transparent fence rides along your router table fence for perfect cope cuts every time.
This shop made coping jig is an inexpensive alternative to commercial models.
This mortising jig was originally designed by a friend and local woodworker John Nephew. It has always been affectionately referred to as “John’s Jig” and has been built and used by the majority of the woodworking night school students for the past eight years.
We have made a few minor changes over the years and are very satisfied with the end results. It is a very practical tool that make mortising with a hand held router easy and quick. Simple to build, easy to setup and even easier to use, it is one jig that you will be glad you built for your shop.
The work-piece stop blocks (shown in Paduk) are easy to remove for longer boards, but very handy when you want to make end mortises for loose tenon joinery.
This horizontal routing table project has been one of my most popular designs. Easy to build and even easier to use. It makes a great addition to any shop.
If you have purchased any type of molding or baseboard these days you will realize the value of this shop made horizontal router. Some profiles are a lot easier to cut with with your work-piece laying flat, rather than having to stand it up along a low fence. A horizontal router allows you do just that. This router table is simple to construct, the toughest part is aligning the components for the lift mechanism, however the plan makes this operation quite easy to complete. You will realize how easy this is to use and wish you had made it years ago.
Remember when using this router table the work piece is fed from right to left not left to right like a traditional router table, the use of feather boards will assist you greatly when using a horizontal router table.