Kids Kitchen Booster
Children like to help mom or dad in the kitchen now you can keep them safe and secure instead of standing on a chair with the Kids Kitchen Booster.
The helper stands 36” high so it is in line with most kitchen counter tops. The platform that they stand on is adjustable to three different positions so depending on the size of your little assistant you can make it work.
The front rungs (stretchers) are used as a ladder so the children can climb on to the platform.
One of the best features about this Kid’s project is its ability to collapse to a thickness of 8 9/16” for easy storage when not in use.
I designed the booster so it will fit up tight to the counter, even the flared feet which I added for stability will fit under the toe-kick on most kitchen cabinetry.
The project is very simple to build and consists of only eight different pieces. The mortise and tenon joinery makes the helper rock solid and will last for years. As far as materials just about anything will work. I would likely suggest a hardwood just for strength, however if you are concerned about weight or are trying to keep the costs down a softwood will work just fine. One thing I would consider adding would be the plastic edging on the collapsible sides just as an extra level of security.
Helping to keep your children safe in the kitchen ….. Happy woodworking!
Booster PDF Plan #116 …………… Only $5.95
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Convertible Picnic Table or Bench
**Correction on Parts List: Part K … Quantity should read 6**
This convertible bench – table is great when you are limited for space on a small deck or a campsite easily convert your bench into a picnic table or table into a bench whatever you need at the time. Made entirely from construction lumber or if you want to dress it up you may want to use cedar.
The overall construction of this project is quite basic but accuracy it very important. There has to be clearance while converting from table to bench or vice versa. It also has to sit level no matter how your furniture is being used.
I designed the project using ¾” dowel stock as pivot points, however you could easily use bolts and nuts as long as you recess the bolt head and locking nut.
In either position the table or bench sits at a normal height of approximately 19” from the ground for the seating and 30” from the ground which is normal table height. I have shown the fixture in different colors but that is just for clarity when viewing.
In either position the furniture piece will be handy and certainly a conversation piece with your family, friends and visitors. Have fun …. Happy Woodworking!
Table – Bench PDF Plan #118 ……………………. Just $8.95
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Have fun – Impress your friends with your new
Is it a Table or a Bench 🙂
Double Folding Bed
Looking for the NEW Version of the DOUBLE FOLDING BED it’s HERE …. Plan # 148
On the suggestion of a several fellow woodworkers, I have made a few modifications to the original double size Bed-in-a-Box.
The original double bed in a box plan was designed around the size of a California king size bed. Several users wanted to build a smaller version it was suggested a double bed would be useful.
Because the bed has to collapse and fit into the box when not in use I had to modify the side frames to accommodate the narrower width. The new design actually makes it very easy to build whatever size suits your needs by varying the length of the center joiner side frame and adjusting your slats accordingly.
The new plan is designed to fit a double (full or standard) mattress. (53 x 74 1/2). As I said previously it is more easily adapted to fit any size of mattress.
With the latest version I have eliminated four hinges and changed the ¼’ pivot dowel to a recessed ¼” hex bolt and nut for added strength.
In addition as of June I have added a detachable handle to make it easier to carry and a lock and pin set to secure the headboard in position when set up as a bed.
When we share ideas we all benefit Happy Woodworking!
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Enjoy a good nights sleep in your new Double Size Folding Bed
Standard King Size Folding Bed
(Mattress Size 76″ x 80″ 193 x202 cm)
Since the first Bed in a Box plan that was created back in 2013 with permission of the originator Robert MacPherson I have been asked for a standard king sized bed. However until now I couldn’t figure out how to have that size of bed fold-up and store all of the components inside so I could call it a Bed in a Box.
While working on some newer models like the twin, double and queen beds I have figured away to maintain a similar design and still have the bed collapse with all of the elements stored inside. As it happens it turned out all I had to do was make the bed fold in the opposite direction
The beds are meant to be built using pine in order to keep the cost and carrying weight lower. If you are not building the beds with transportation in mind you could use any material for example poplar if you are budget conscious or any other domestic or exotic hardwood.
Because the king beds are so wide I have added removable feet under the support beams in the middle of the bed. The other big advantage to the new design is that it uses less strap hinges for the conversion. In addition the number of dovetails that have to be cut has been decreased considerably without compromising strength.
For those that have been waiting for this size of bed, I hope you enjoy your new standard king sized bed.
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Queen Size Folding Bed V-II
The new style queen size bed in a box has eliminated several of the concerns some folks had with the original queen bed.
The joiner boards on the side rails have been removed and the number of dovetails on the bed slats, in the original plan, have been reduced to a total of four.
The original plan called for the bed to collapse across its width now it folds along the head to foot. Four of the strap hinges have been replaced with a single continuous (piano) hinge making this design easier and less expensive to build.
The two piece top (lid) and the removable locking handles store inside the bed when in use and then drop into place when the bed is being stored away in it box state.
Overall these design changes make the queen size bed in a box even more convenient to use and store and much simpler modify to a variety of sizes. If you would still prefer the original queen bed you can view that plan #111 HERE
Enjoy your time in the shop ….. Happy Woodworking
Queen V-II PDF Plan #149 …………….. $9.95
Queen V-II PDF
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Double Size Folding Bed
At the request of several woodworkers I have completely re-vamped the double size bed in a box. If would prefer the original double sized Bed in a Box you can find it HERE A standard double (full) size mattress measures 53″ x 74 1/2″ (134.5 x 189 cm)
The lid (top) and locking handles store away inside when in bed mode and then drops into place when in box mode. As with the original version the box halves are locked together with a removable handle. The new style of side rails cuts down on weight while giving the bed a nice new look. The headboard has also changed. It now mounts at the head of the bed but lifts out and disassembles for easy storage.The fold is now along the opposite axis using a continuous (piano) hinge. The number of strap hinges has been reduced which makes the bed less reliant on mechanical joinery, the joiner board on the side has been eliminated and the number of dovetails has been reduced to only four boards. Overall some very worthwhile modifications that should reduce construction time and material costs.
Overall I believe the changes in version 2 make this double bed in a box a dramatic improvement over its predecessor. Have Fun!
Version 2 Double Bed PDF Plan #148 ….. Now $9.95
Double V2 PDF
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TWIN Folding Bed
To complete the line of Bed in a box designs and at the request of followers of the website I have finalized the Twin bed.
The twin bed is designed to hold a mattress which is 38” x 74 ½”. This size worked out perfectly it even has extra storage space when the unit is in the box configuration.
I increased the slat size to ¾” thick because of the extra width without a center support. I also cut down on the number of hinges because there are only two points that have to fold on itself.
The dovetailed slats add tremendous strength to the structure of the bed and can be made with standard size boards (1” x 4” nominal) without as much waste as compared to the wider slats in some of the other beds.
Hopefully with this last bed in the series everyone will find one that suits their needs.
If you would like to compare this bed with the others that are available you can do so with the following links. King, Queen, Double, Single, Compact single. Whichever style you choose, enjoy the projects and the woodworking that it entails. Happy Woodworking!
Twin Bed PDF Plan #142 …….. $8.95
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The Triangle Stool
I’ve looked at several versions of this style of chair and finally decided to design one that I thought could be built without having to turn the rungs. The chair is assembled using square tenons on the end of hexagon rails. Each of the tenons that protrude through the legs are secured with wedges the front rail tenons meet the side tenons and both are locked in place with a mechanical fasteners and the covered with a dowel plug. The head rest is held with a wedged through tenon and the angled support braces are totally optional.
A little History… (The history is from the St Thomas Guild)
The triangle stools (or schemel or driestal in Dutch) were very popular in medieval and later times, becoming out of fashion in the 18th century. They can be found in many medieval paintings and manuscripts, e.g. the “scupstool” of Rogier van der Weyden (around 1450) in the New York Metropolitan Museum of Art. However no real medieval examples exist in musea. John Howe has written an article in Dragon 4 of the Company of St. George on medieval seating furniture, containing many different images of triangular stools. Basically these stools appeared in two types: with and without a backrest. The turned triangular stools without a backrest were found in all kinds of sizes, and serving as seating as well as side tables. The seating could be a woven reed mat, a wooden slat or a piece of leather.
This will be a challenging build but the results will be amazing.
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Fit for a Lord or Lady
I was searching for ideas that I thought might be useful to re-creators of times gone by when I came across a picture of a throne similar to this. I still wanted the throne to be transportable so I added the through tenons with the locking pins which should do the trick. The chair breaks down into 4 sub-assemblies so moving it from camp to camp shouldn’t be an issue.
Woodworkers for centuries have depended on the mortise and tenon for strong joinery and this throne is no exception. All of the sub-assemblies are connected with through M & T joinery with a unique locking pin that easily secures the parts together. Mortise and tenon are also used to hold each of the components together in the sub-assemblies. There are a few mechanical (Woodscrews) joints but they are hidden on the inside of the chair and will only be seen by the person putting the chair together.
When I was drawing the throne I was thinking hardwood as the main material however to keep the weight down, I’m sure a good softwood would work as well.
The seat sits just over 18” from the ground which is pretty average, so if the person using the chair is of short stature you may want to add a footrest to the lower front rail or lower the overall dimensions to suit your personal needs.
I have provided templates for the curved parts which should simplify the construction for you.
Either way I believe this will be a fun project to build and show off.
Enjoy and happy woodworking!
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Now you can look over your kingdom in your new Throne
Plus Bonus – Bandsaw Circle Jig
This wheelbarrow is a fun practical project that will offer a few challenges to build. In order to make the front wheel for the wheelbarrow you will need to cut nicely rounded circles. To help you accomplish the perfect circles I have included a circle cutting jig for use with your bandsaw. No bandsaw –no problem cut out the circle with a jigsaw and fair a smooth circle. I used 2 pieces of ¾” plywood laminated together to make-up my wheel material, however any material that is 1 ½” thick will do the trick. The cut-outs in the wheel look great but are totally optional and serve no purpose other than make your conversation piece look cool. I just drilled holes and cut away the bulk of the material and then routed them smooth with the use of a MDF template and a flush trim bit. The side frames and the leg extensions of the project are 1 ½” thick for strength. I used spruce / fir to keep the costs down. If you want to make the Cadillac version you could use and 8/4 hardwood such as oak. I have provided a template which you can enlarge to a 1:1 to make it easier to match the curves. The actual shape of the curves is not crucial as long there is a flat area to secure the barrow portion to the side frames. The box of the wheelbarrow is assembled with a version of a lap joint. The trickiest part is getting the correct angles when cutting your locking slats, but every project needs a test to keep you on your game. Overall the wheelbarrow is a simple yet useful project with a minimum number of components and a few challenges along the way. Have Fun! Bruce
If you are interested in ONLY the circle jig (Plan #30) you may purchase it HERE
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Now get out there and put your new Wheelbarrow to use! 🙂